FMP It All hinges On This 16th April

It All Hinges On This   16th April

I have 3 weeks to finish my project, so this morning I was determined to complete as many tasks as I can in the next two days, so I can start making my piece next week.

I started the day forming and hammering the copper. With both the copper and the wooden templates ready, I could then place the copper between the two wooden templates and screw them in place. In order to do this, I had to carefully consider the best way to get the screws through the copper without fusing the metal and wood together. Without damaging any of the materials, I had to drill holes in the copper before I fixed the templates in place. In order to do this, I first sandwiched the copper in between the wooden templates, then in order to know where to drill the holes, I lightly pushed the screws through, not so much that it would screw the metal, but just enough to leave an indentation.

I could then use the indentations as a guild to drill the holes exactly where I need them. This saved time and made sure that I didn't damage anything. After drilling the copper, I only had to file down the rough edges of the holes I made so that I could have a clean flat surface. This was important so that the copper would fit securely between the two wooden templates.

Every part of the process has to be carefully considered and analysed to ensure that not only are you making a well finished and professional product, but that your doing it in a time efficient way without too much waste materiel.

With my template ready, I then had to make the stamps. Sadly, the one that is available to me is slightly too big for my design. I had to solve this problem by cutting some thin steel rods and filing one of the edges down in order to create a small enough stamp that was able to fit in my template. Most of the filing could be done by machine, but for a fine smooth surface I had to finish it off by hand, making sure that there wasn't any sharp edges. Otherwise, while I'm hammering into the copper, it might put too much stress into the metal and create a hole.

When I had made my own metal stamp and had smoothed the ends, I could start hammering out the copper. This was a slow process, making sure I evenly raise the copper using the three different sized stamps. On the first section, I hammered out the centre and then moved onto the smaller stamps the closer I got to the edge. As I continued hammering the copper, it gradually started to re-harden making it more difficult for me to leave an indentation. If I wanted to achieve more of a smooth raised shape, I would have to reheat the copper and continue hammering it.

When I had finished I was able to take the copper out of the template and examine my test piece. Closely examining the copper, I could see the texture I had achieved. It was a slightly uneven surface rather than the smooth one I wanted. If really wanted a smoother texture, I would have to continue using the stamps until I have the texture I want. Even then, I would still have a slight uneven bumpy texture.

I wanted to raise the surface of the copper so that I'd have different and more completed layers. This would mimic the layers of someone's personality, so the uneven texture might symbolise that better. I'd have to think more on this and reflect which would be better fitting for my concept.

One of the other problems was the size of my piece. The way it is now, I'll find it difficult. With that in mind, I have to scale up my design. I might draw out different sizes and see which one would be best for my design.

After lunch, and a rethink of my design, I could then practise making a hinge. This seemed to be a complex device, but after looking at the hinges on some of my own lockets, it was more the size that made it seem more detailed. After being talked though the process of making one, I was more confident.

Getting the thinnest steel rod the college had, I cut out of some scrap copper (two pieces of 3cm). I placed the steel rod and copper to make sure that edge of the copper was aligned with the rod. This is vital. If there is any over hanging copper, then when I roll the rest of the hinge, it wont be a tight fit and the hinge will be loose and less effective. As well as this, I have to make sure that the copper is even. If not, then the hinge won't close properly and become useless.

With this in mind, I had to carefully make the hinge using a piece of scrap metal to push the copper down and curling it round the rod in the clamp. After each time, I would have to turn the rod and copper round and repeat the process again till the rod is completely covered with the copper. I then have what is starting to look like a hinge.

Once I have repeated this on a second piece of copper to create two separate hinges, I then had to mark out the half way point and then mark out 1cm from the centre, so I could make the three toothed hinge. I started cutting through the copper to make the two separate copper hinges slot together, making one working hinge. Cutting the middle out of one, and the two sides from the other, I could then slot them together and have a working hinge.

It was the first hinge I made. It wasn't perfect, but it worked. After filing the copper down in places, I was very happy that I accomplished making a small working hinge. If I was to make it again, I would make sure that when I cut out the section, I would measure the exact size I needed height wise, so that there won't be as large a gap.