Egyptians
The first signs of established
jewellery making was by the Ancient Egyptians. They preferred to work with the
luxury and workability of gold over other metals. Because of this, their jewellery
soon began to symbolise power in the community. As well as using gold, the
Egyptians used coloured glass. The colour of the jewellery had significance;
the green, for example, symbolised fertility. Along with glass they also used
precious gems to create their jewellery. Although it was worn by wealthy
Egyptians in life, it was also worn by them in death, with jewellery commonly
placed among grave goods. Although lapis lazuli and silver had to be imported
from beyond the country’s borders, many other materials for jewellery were
found in or near Egypt.
Greeks
The Greeks started using gold and
gems in jewellery in 1600 BC. The main techniques of working gold in Greece included
casting, twisting bars, and making wire. By 300BC, the Greeks had mastered making
coloured jewellery and using amethysts, pearl, and emeralds. Jewellery in Greece was
hardly worn and was mostly used for public appearances or on special occasions.
It was frequently given as a gift and was predominantly worn by women to show
their wealth, social status, and beauty, but older pieces of jewellery that
have been found were dedicated to the Gods.
China
The Chinese used silver in their jewellery
more than gold. Early in Chinese jewellery, blue gems and glass were incorporated
into designs but the preferred stone over any other was jade. The Chinese
revered jade because of the human-like qualities they assigned to it, such as
its hardness, durability, and beauty. Although the first jade pieces were very
simple, as time progressed, more complex designs evolved. Out of all jewellery
amulets were common, often with a Chinese symbol or dragon. Dragons, Chinese
symbols, and phoenixes were frequently depicted on jewellery designs.
Pacific
Early Pacific jewellery was made of
bone, wood, and other natural materials, and thus has not survived. Most
Pacific jewellery is worn above the waist, with headdresses, necklaces, hair
pins, and arm and waist belts being the most common pieces. Most Jewellery in
the Pacific, with the exception of Australia, is worn to be a symbol
of either fertility or power. Elaborate headdresses are worn by many Pacific
cultures and some, such as the inhabitants of Papua New Guinea, wear certain
headdresses once they have killed an enemy. Island jewellery is still very much
primal because of the lack of communication with outside cultures. However, the
island nations that were flooded with Western missionaries have had drastic
changes made to their jewellery designs. Missionaries saw any type of tribal
jewellery as a sign of the wearer's devotion to paganism.
Aztecs
Among the Aztecs, only nobility
wore gold jewellery, as it showed rank, power, and wealth in their culture.
Gold jewellery was most common in the Aztec Empire and was often decorated with
feathers. Generally, the more jewellery an Aztec noble wore, the higher his
status or prestige. The Emperor and his High Priests would be almost completely
covered in jewellery when making public appearances. Although gold was the most
common and a popular material used in Aztec jewellery, jade, turquoise, and
certain feathers were considered more valuable. In
addition to adornment and status, the Aztecs also used jewellery in sacrifices
to appease the gods. Priests also used gem-encrusted daggers to perform animal
and human sacrifices.
Indians
Indians have been using jewellery
for adornment for centuries. The range of jewellery in India varies
from religious to purely aesthetic. It is crafted not only for humans, but also
for the Gods. Regional differences can be observed in the making of jewellery.
The significance of jewellery in the country is evident from the fact that on
many auspicious occasions, jewellery forms a part of gifts. Though the trend of
men wearing jewellery themselves has now faded away, Indian women for whom
jewellery holds the most significance. In India, jewellery is considered
auspicious for women. Even poorest of women will have some kind of jewellery
with them. With jewellery having a significance in the life of women in India, they are
given gifts of jewellery in different important phases of life such as, at
birth, at coming of age, in marriage, and on becoming a mother. This gives the
jewellery a different meaning and embedded itself into the heart of their
culture.
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