Thursday, 29 January 2015

3D Communication Breaking the mould 29th January

Breaking the mould   29th January



Once again I had a big day ahead of me; first I had to edit my design I made on illustrator, and add the second part of the bracelet. After making my first tester piece, I had a couple of improvements and changes to make so that it would be closer to the design I had in my mind. Making the section over the hand smaller and the band over the wrist a little wider, it would now fit the wearer's hand a lot better. I then spent most of the morning sorting out the upper part of the bracelet. This would be the time consuming part. I first had to decide what size I wanted to make the long strips that curl round the arm.


After making the strips just a plain line, I then had to do some design ideas that would be the final look of the bold and confident part of my statement bracelet. The way I could convey this is by making them bold sharp shapes. After drawing a lot of designs, I picked the best six and took the plain lines I had already made in illustrator and changed them to the chosen designs.

After fixing and resizing, I had my design ready to cut. After a couple of minutes, and going over the outline again, I could then push my design out of the acrylic sheet ready for heating and moulding onto my manikin arm. This took time. I had stupidly put all the pieces in together. With the acrylic only taking a short time to heat and cool, I had to work quickly. Having kept the other pieces under the heat they had formed bubbles from overheating. Next time I will put the pieces in one at a time and only when I'm happy with the way each one has turned out.

With all the parts cooled, I could then fix all the parts together. This was more difficult than I thought. I had to hold each piece for five minutes while it dried. Once it was all fixed together I took a look at my test piece, there was a lot that could be improved. First of all the part that goes up the wears arm was too small. I wanted it to have more of an impact. Also, I have to add another band round the wrist so that it would be more comfortable for the wearer and wouldn't rub against the skin.

Tuesday, 27 January 2015

3D communication 27th January

 3D communication 27th January


With only two more weeks to finish my final piece, I had to make sure I do as much as I can to make sure I have everything ready for the exhibition on the 12th. I have done all my research and the is design sorted, so I just need to make my jewellery. I'm hoping with all my extra work I'm willing to put in, I will have it all done by this Friday.

I started by planning out my day and what I want to do in the time I have. First of all I need to get my design on illustrator and sort out the scale. I have already measured out what size I want my piece to be. It was just the matter of making sure I set the page up.

I started to draw out my design, but I knew that this is the one thing that would take the longest time to complete. I had to get this done as quick as possible so I could move onto the next stage which is cutting out my jewellery from the acrylic sheet. After finishing the outline of the first half of my bracelets I could then do my first test piece of heating and moulding the acrylic round a manikins wrist. Carefully heating the acrylic, I then had to hold the bracelet in place while it cooled.
After it was cooled I was able to see more clearly how I could fit the piece together and how it would sit on the wrist. I needed to work out a way it would attach to the wearer with out moving too much or rubbing the skin. After thinking it through, the idea of having two small cuts in the sides so that I could have a band or ribbon to hold it in place.

After having my test piece was ready and sorted, and finally seeing the piece come together, I know that it won't take me too long to get my piece ready for the show. All I have to do is make a plinth for my piece to sit on.

Friday, 16 January 2015

3D Communication Testing and Moulding 15th January

Testing and Moulding   15th January 

Once again it was the end of the week and that means I now only have 4 more weeks to get my project finished and ready for the show. With today being the last day for research, I had to make sure I was ready for next week's design and testing. Although I know I will have time to do bits of research after college, but not as much as I have the last week or so.

I started doing some last minute research into artists, and how objects can tell a story. I had made a decision to make a start on some test pieces after lunch so that I could get some idea if I could realistically make my design with the materials I wanted. Before I did anything I had a quick go at making a sand cast mould of my wrist so that I could have a visual idea of the dimensions I will be working on and the shapes I could make.

I selected some small pieces of acrylic from the spare acrylic bin and began to heat them up so that I could mould and bend them into the shapes I wanted. I placed the small pieces onto the heat and left them to warm for a short time. Wearing thick gloves so not to burn myself, I could then carefully take them off to mould them round a paper tube.



I just had time for my test pieces to cool before we had to have a group talk about how all our projects had developed over the last week. I have changed my project; I wanted to make it more of a narrative than just one solid aspect of a persons personality. I was thinking after getting the feedback on the survey, I know that one of the main things that have changed is my confidence as I get to know people. So I decided I could use that as part of a narrative. The only thing is now have to think of how to convey that aspect in an artistic form.





Wednesday, 14 January 2015

3D Communication Ideas and Artists 14th January

Ideas and Artists 14th January



It was the first day back after the weekend and as I thought a bit more of communication through jewellery I had to have a clearer idea of what part of the persons personality i wanted to convey through my piece. As it was a part of my personality I knew I first had to find out what if any part of my personality was the most prominent or had changed, so I made the decision to make a survey and hand it round to get a better idea of what others think of my personality. 

While i was writing the survey I had another look for jewellery designers that have made interesting or different ways of looking at jewellery. I want to find a designer that takes jewellery to a different level not just something ornamental but to have something about them that stands out, one designer I have done some research on was Naomi Filmer her jewellery is a lot more sculptural and looks at the space that the body fills and movement even just breathing.

As i looked at more jewellery designers I spent some time researching Emily Cobb her designs focus on more of the story telling aspect of her jewellery and uses modern 3D printing technology to create her designs. This gives me some ideas on how id like to develop my ideas into more of a changing developing piece of jewellery, having it starting at one aspect and changing to another of how my 
personality  has changed siece being on this course. I'll have to wait for some feed back from the survey but im having so ideas already about what I could do.

Tuesday, 13 January 2015

Emily Cobb

 Emily Cobb

Emily Cobb is a jewellery designer who is currently living and working Philadelphia. After receiving her Master of Fine Arts in Metals/Jewellery/CAD-CAM from Tyler School of Art in 2012, she is now adjunct instructor at the very same place she studied at. She also works for a jewellery design company in New York City and for independent studio artists in Philadelphia. Emily Cobb has held many solo exhibition at the Philadelphia Art Alliance, but as well as that she has also exhibited at museums such as the Delaware Centre for the Contemporary Arts and the Racine Art Museum. Her work has also been featured in Metalsmith Magazine, Philadelphia Daily News, and publications such as 500 Rings: New Directions in Art Jewellery and Humor in Craft.

Emily Cobb designs her works with CAD (computer-assisted design) software and manufactures it from sturdy lightweight photopolymers and nylon using a sophisticated 3D printer to create the 3D fairy-tale objects. It's also different from conventional pieces because of the materials used to make it, Cobb said, "Historically, society puts precious metals and stones on a pedestal. But I haven't found people want my jewellery to be priced lower because it's plastic." Cobb's smaller pieces cost from $100 to $300 while her larger unique pieces start at $1,000 and go to $3,000 depending on size and complexity.

Cobb's works hold their own as miniature sculptures sitting in glass cases or pinned to the wall. Each piece has a "Once upon a time" story introduction written by the artist on the title card. Cobb invites viewers to write their own story in specially made blank books. Most of the writings are whimsical and in keeping with Cobb's narrative. She embraces all the entries and is thrilled that some people are finishing each other's stories, something she did not anticipate.

When talking about her work she had this to say, "The illustration enchants me; it has a title and caption, but no story. I feel compelled to envision the narrative … to create the before and after … to solve the mystery."

When looking at her work, the first thing that hit me was the resemblance to illustration. Each piece looks as if they have been taken from an illustrated storybook, beautifully crafted with great detail to resemble the story characters as if they were real.

Each piece comes with a short description explaining the jewellery's story, but only a couple of sentences. This leaves the rest up to the imagination of the person viewing the work. It gives the jewellery another level of interest only having a glimpse of the tale and leaves us to wonder what is the rest of the story, and why has only this part been captured? Perhaps it is the end, or final scene and there is no more to be told? Or it is a turning point and has great importance for what is to come. Ether way Emily Cobb has managed to take a piece of jewellery and turn it into a narrative. The term wearable art has been use before, but these pieces appear to be more like a wearable story.

Culture and Jewellery hand in hand ?

Jewellery



Egyptians

The first signs of established jewellery making was by the Ancient Egyptians. They preferred to work with the luxury and workability of gold over other metals. Because of this, their jewellery soon began to symbolise power in the community. As well as using gold, the Egyptians used coloured glass. The colour of the jewellery had significance; the green, for example, symbolised fertility. Along with glass they also used precious gems to create their jewellery. Although it was worn by wealthy Egyptians in life, it was also worn by them in death, with jewellery commonly placed among grave goods. Although lapis lazuli and silver had to be imported from beyond the country’s borders, many other materials for jewellery were found in or near Egypt.



Greeks

The Greeks started using gold and gems in jewellery in 1600 BC. The main techniques of working gold in Greece included casting, twisting bars, and making wire. By 300BC, the Greeks had mastered making coloured jewellery and using amethysts, pearl, and emeralds. Jewellery in Greece was hardly worn and was mostly used for public appearances or on special occasions. It was frequently given as a gift and was predominantly worn by women to show their wealth, social status, and beauty, but older pieces of jewellery that have been found were dedicated to the Gods.


China

The Chinese used silver in their jewellery more than gold. Early in Chinese jewellery, blue gems and glass were incorporated into designs but the preferred stone over any other was jade. The Chinese revered jade because of the human-like qualities they assigned to it, such as its hardness, durability, and beauty. Although the first jade pieces were very simple, as time progressed, more complex designs evolved. Out of all jewellery amulets were common, often with a Chinese symbol or dragon. Dragons, Chinese symbols, and phoenixes were frequently depicted on jewellery designs.


 
Pacific

Early Pacific jewellery was made of bone, wood, and other natural materials, and thus has not survived. Most Pacific jewellery is worn above the waist, with headdresses, necklaces, hair pins, and arm and waist belts being the most common pieces. Most Jewellery in the Pacific, with the exception of Australia, is worn to be a symbol of either fertility or power. Elaborate headdresses are worn by many Pacific cultures and some, such as the inhabitants of Papua New Guinea, wear certain headdresses once they have killed an enemy. Island jewellery is still very much primal because of the lack of communication with outside cultures. However, the island nations that were flooded with Western missionaries have had drastic changes made to their jewellery designs. Missionaries saw any type of tribal jewellery as a sign of the wearer's devotion to paganism.



 

 Aztecs

Among the Aztecs, only nobility wore gold jewellery, as it showed rank, power, and wealth in their culture. Gold jewellery was most common in the Aztec Empire and was often decorated with feathers. Generally, the more jewellery an Aztec noble wore, the higher his status or prestige. The Emperor and his High Priests would be almost completely covered in jewellery when making public appearances. Although gold was the most common and a popular material used in Aztec jewellery, jade, turquoise, and certain feathers were considered more valuable. In addition to adornment and status, the Aztecs also used jewellery in sacrifices to appease the gods. Priests also used gem-encrusted daggers to perform animal and human sacrifices.


Indians

Indians have been using jewellery for adornment for centuries. The range of jewellery in India varies from religious to purely aesthetic. It is crafted not only for humans, but also for the Gods. Regional differences can be observed in the making of jewellery. The significance of jewellery in the country is evident from the fact that on many auspicious occasions, jewellery forms a part of gifts. Though the trend of men wearing jewellery themselves has now faded away, Indian women for whom jewellery holds the most significance. In India, jewellery is considered auspicious for women. Even poorest of women will have some kind of jewellery with them. With jewellery having a significance in the life of women in India, they are given gifts of jewellery in different important phases of life such as, at birth, at coming of age, in marriage, and on becoming a mother. This gives the jewellery a different meaning and embedded itself into the heart of their culture.

Thursday, 8 January 2015

3D comunnication Idea Explained 8th January


Idea Explained   8th January

It was a day full of research. The only problem I had was the level of noise from the other students and finding a computer to work on. After I had found myself a computer, I started on my artist research. This continued for the rest of the day. I searched for artists that have done something different with jewellery.

After most of the day on the computer and away from the group, we had a quick recap and group critique at the end of the day. It was just so everyone knew where they stand and where each other was. This gave us a great opportunity to give ideas and help to one another. This is something I find more then helpful. Sometimes it takes someone who on the outside to give you a new idea, or ways of looking at your concept that you might not of thought of. After talking about my idea, I got some good feedback on what I could research and hopefully give me different ideas and the paths I can take my concept.

At the end of day three of research, I have come to the conclusion that I have a lot to do on my concept before it would be ready for the show at the end of the month. Over the weekend I'm hoping to get my ideas to a finished stage so that come next week I have a clear idea of how I want my piece to look. The only questions that would be left for me to answer is what I will be making out of.

Naomi Filmer


Naomi Filmer is a jewellery designer that has trained in 3D Design at undergraduate level, then obtained an MA. She then specialised in jewellery design at the Royal College of Art in London in 1993. Although she is classed as a jewellery designer, her work is very sculptural and is often made for areas of the body such as the armpit or the mouth, that traditionally aren’t associated with jewellery. As well as making her own bespoke pieces Naomi Filmer has made jewellery for well known British fashion designers like Hussein Chalayan and Alexander McQueen. Since 1999 she has made work to commission for international exhibitions.

Naomi Filmer is a jewellery designer that sees jewellery as something much deeper then just decoration. When talking about her work, she explains it as being the underlying reference and the key to explaining inspiration. The pieces she creates focus more on aesthetic than a narrative. Although jewellery can tell a tale and can be poetic, she tries to convey emotions rather than tell a story through her work.

Naomi Filmer compares the creation of an object in collaboration with a craftsman, to a dance. Her main theme, the relationship between the body and the space, can be discussed in similar terms; interaction and dance. The metaphor is closely related to Filmer's personal life. Since her early childhood, she has been a dancer and she gave up a professional career only to become an artist.

Her collection 'Breathing Volume' is a series of 4 sculptures. Each of the pieces were given a name. The three plaster sculptures called, Gather, Accumulate, Absorb, and one bronze called Let Go. All four sculptures were designed for the area around the mouth, chin and neck of the human body. These sculptural jewellery pieces were based on the ideas of space and movement, and how we continually change the space we exist in. While we go about or daily lives, our movement can have an effect even when sitting still; the slightest movement of the head, or breathing in and out. She explains it as breathing in the space.

Naomi Filmer takes great inspiration and interest from the different materials in relation to the human body and the relationship or dialog between the two. What Naomi Filmer finds interesting about this relationship of the object and the body is the sensation, not only the material sensation, but also the physical one. This could be seen as the weight of the piece, but also how you wear it, or it wears you, how it moves, and even how it changes and dictates your posture. The relationship between the positive and negative space as well as the presence or absence of the body is key to her work. Most aspects of art Naomi Filmer takes the time to reflect on the between, inside and outside whilst she's creating her spatially aware pieces.

Instead of having the body as a location for the art, Naomi Filmer turned the human figure into a "catalyst" for the shapes and collection. This brings up the question of what is more important, the object you wear, or the person that wears the object.

Wednesday, 7 January 2015

3D communication linking ideas together 7th January

Linking Ideas Together 7th January


With it only being day two of the four week project, I'm still in the early stage of the design process. Yesterday I only had a blurred outline of an idea. Today has been about research and brain storming. I still can't get the feeling of having to rush and finish, like I have no time at all. This is probably because my brain is still in the two week mindset and I'm not sure if that's a good idea or not? I think it is being able to finish and manage my time under pressure is always a helpful tool. With most of today spent finding different artists that have done statement pieces of jewellery, and trying to resolve my concept, it has gone quickly. I did mange to have a plan of what I wanted to do for my final piece, or a firmer one then yesterday.

I wanted to research statement pieces of jewellery as a part of the wearer's way of communicating their personality to the outside world. It's a statement about themselves, or a part of themselves they want others to see. This can be taken in different ways as any bold statement can be. People like it or don't and then they judge the person on that.

We can analyse this further. Maybe the jewellery is acting as a frame for something? It could be to draw a person in, have a talking point, or to catch everyone's eye in the room. This person would be very confident, or crave attention. This could also be seen as showing off. If they were showing off, then what is it that they want to say with a large piece of jewellery? The obvious is wealth. A one off bespoke piece would not come cheap and the fact that it would be so large would make the statement, "I can afford to spend a lot of money on one piece of jewellery." If it was expensive it could indicate importance or power. In the past, rulers would be given some of the most expensive gems and jewellery as gift if they visited different countries.

Many different things can be communicated by just wearing a single piece of jewellery. I would be creating a individual aspect of my own personality by following the processes a designer would if they were creating something for a client.

Alexander Calder's Jewellery

Alexander Calder's Jewellery


Alexander Calder's jewellery reflects his large sculptures and his famous mobiles creating unique pieces. Small sculptures to wear, never reproduced for the masses. It’s become a cliché to describe statement making jewellery as “wearable art,” but no other term quite captures the personal adornments made by Alexander Calder. His earrings, necklaces and bracelets were mini-mobiles that dangled from the wrists, necks and earlobes of celebrities.

His first creations were small accessories for her sister’s dolls, made by wire.
Growing up he refined his jewels, producing them in silver and gold, but also with poorer materials such as brass, leather cord, coloured glass pebbles, and anything else that could inspire him. As early as 1929, mostly as gifts for intimate friends and family, Calder made intricate pieces. In particular Louisa James whom he married in 1931.

Alexander Calder's works are self consciously clever, all are one-of-a-kind objects d’art. Calder had many opportunities to sign off on reproductions, and always refused. Calder made for his wife Louisa, an engagement ring. It's a simple spiral of gold wire. Calder always returned to the spiral for birthday and anniversary gifts; he seems to have adopted this late Bronze Age motif as a personal talisman.
Calder's jewellery appealed to women with avant-garde tastes who liked to make a dramatic entrance. Mary Rockefeller was said to have required a little elbow room when she wore her Calder necklace to art openings. Peggy Guggenheim boasted in her autobiography, “I am the only woman in the world who wears his enormous mobile earrings.”

Calder’s necklaces and tiaras could take up a lot of space without looking heavy. Craftsmanship is anything but mysterious; nearly every piece consists of hammered, bent or chiselled wire. Pliers marks are visible on the unpolished surfaces. Calder rarely used solder; when he needed to join strips of metal, he linked them with loops, bound them with snippets of wire or fashioned rivets. Some of his intricate-looking cuff bracelets, with wavy lines and zigzags, are little more than single pieces of twisted and flattened wire.

In both technique and design, Calder aspired to be“primitive.” Like Picasso, he had seen and collected African sculpture in Paris. Calder’s bracelets and neck collars with parallel strips of wire bear a striking resemblance to the beaded corsets worn by members of the tribes of East Africa. Calder’s sophistication in the silversmith craft grew and he soon hammered the wires into flattened forms that are the basis of his great spiral brooches, bracelet and elaborate necklaces.
He convinced us that art can be precious, and jewellery need not be.





Tuesday, 6 January 2015

Alexander McQueen

David Marshall

http://www.fluxmagazine.com/index.php/fashion/art-rocks-jewellery-exhibition/

shaun leane

http://www.harriete-estel-berman.info/jewelry/jewelry-recycle-collection.html

http://tryandseek.blogspot.co.uk/


http://emeraldscarab.com/jewelry-hunt/

Naomi Filmer
http://www.brand.swarovski.com/Content.Node/ourinitiatives/jewelry/runwayrocks/catwalkheroes/gallery/catwalkheroes19.en.html#/en/ourinitiatives/jewelry/runwayrocks/catwalkheroes


http://wildkingdominspired.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/jewellery-is-extention-of-our-identity.html

http://www.brand.swarovski.com/Content.Node/ourinitiatives/jewelry/runwayrocks/catwalkheroes/gallery/catwalkheroes19.en.html#/en/ourinitiatives/jewelry/runwayrocks/catwalkheroes


yong joo kim

Sue Gregor


http://www.wearableartblog.com/my_weblog/2012/08/acrylic-jewelry-by-sue-gregor.html

3D Communication Power Point and Mind Map 6th January

Power Point and Mind Map   6th January


The first day of a long project always starts with an idea. In our case a brief, and this one was all about communication in all its forms and meaning. Much like the 3D subject, it started with a power point presentation. This was to make sure we know what questions we should be asking ourselves in order to get a professional well thought out finished end product. Such as, what's my target audience? What materials will I be using? On top of the normal questions there were new problems to solve, for example, how and what way am I going to display this piece? I wrote down all these questions so that I may ask myself these things as I go along. I know already that after this course I want to do jewellery design, so this will give me a good opportunity to have a deeper understanding of the materials and techniques I will be using.

With communication and jewellery in mind, I had a brain storm of how I could combine the two into a professional concept and final piece for the exhibition at the end of this project. All these deadlines were in my head. The worry of making sure my final object is not only finished, but to a good enough standard to be accepted into the exhibition had me worrying.

I had to take a it one step at a time, idea first, then concept, test pieces, and finally the finished product. It's the only way I could think at the moment. I had a deep breath and looked down at my notes. What ideas did I have and how can communication work with them? I stopped and thought about it whilst running through the questions that were asked in the power point. It was simple; people communicate through jewellery all the time. Each piece, be it a large statement garment, or a small fragile one, it makes a comment about the wearer. In selecting this object to place around the body, the wearer has given the people around them messages about their personality. They could even be trying to make a statement about themselves.

I thought about how jewellery can tell us a lot more about the person wearing the item than just their personality. It can tell us if they follow fashion, or if they are part of a wider group, their culture, status, power, wealth and importance. We can get all this information from once piece of jewellery.

I now have to dive deeper into the reasons and meanings why someone would wear statement jewellery. Hopefully that will expand my ideas I have now.